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Although recent appointments at Chanel and Dior have generated significant buzz during the current Paris fashion week, it was the first show from the iconic brand that truly captivated the press coverage. The show featured a surprise appearance: the Duchess of Sussex, Meghan, making her initial European outing in a trio of years.

On Saturday night in Paris, the spectacle of Chanel, Dior – along with the notable attendee – were all outshone with the dramatic effect of the Balenciaga event.

The Duchess brought immense star power to Balenciaga’s Paris show.

Prior to the event, the general mood surrounding the designer's first show had been quite calm. The fashion house is a time-honored label, and the creative force is widely recognized as a master of his craft. Furthermore, he is cherished for his status as the kindest personality in the business. The general expectation was that extravagant catwalk stunts had exited the Balenciaga building with the exit of the edgy designer Demna to another luxury house. Yet, even the nicest guys pull off unexpected moves, and the appearance of royalty significantly amplified the overall excitement.

The designer sees himself as an architect, building forms that avoid direct contact with the body.

Interestingly, the central theme of what he called his manifesto, as he described it behind the scenes, was the empowerment of women. His starting point was the revolutionary 1957 design by Balenciaga, a outline that stands away from the body, neither amplifying nor constricting a woman’s curves. He stated that this design was a bold statement of a shifting zeitgeist that was beginning to move from the conservative norms of the 1950s towards the progressive 1960s. The idea centered on progress for women. It freed women from the weight of clothes that sit on their body and define them by their shape. That garment allowed women to be free in space.”

Balenciaga’s most iconic silhouettes were featured in the show, such as this ‘cocoon’ coat.

Clothes that hold their form are at the heart of the Balenciaga's philosophy. The designer compared this approach to design to being an master builder: creating structures that avoid direct interaction with the body, while always thinking about the individuals who will occupy these creations. The original designer was obsessed with the human form and with textiles, and with a key factor – the space in between.”

First onto the catwalk was a fresh take of the sack dress, lengthened to an floor-grazing length, accompanied by long gloves – but also with oversized sunglasses that functioned as a clear homage to the apocalypse-chic of the brand's recent past.

The designer, who at 58 adorns himself with strings of beads and charms and exudes an calm, bohemian vibe, is not interested in seeing fashion as an ego battle. He states that it is “cooler” for creatives to respect each other’s abilities. The creative director mentioned that he was aiming for a successful fusion between the couture roots of the brand, and its more modern casual influences. Classic designs from the house were included in the show: a voluminous outerwear piece, this time in a vibrant poison green, and a A-line dress in a intense purple color.

The concept of effortless French fashion has become a highly profitable trend. This creative talent is an designer from the US, but he understands this aesthetic perfectly. Rider collaborated closely with Phoebe Philo during her tenure at the house, and then spent six years building Polo Ralph Lauren into a beacon of wearable style. In his current role, he is infusing the welcoming philosophy of his previous work to the local aesthetic. The collection featured timeless coats, natural accessories, and elegant scarves tied around bags – all the classic elements of Parisian elegance – executed in sunny colors, with an upbeat American tone. The brand is welcoming, or a brand that wants to exclude people,” the designer explained following the event. My desire is that everyone feels desirable in Celine. When you wear this brand, you may not have the wildest design, but you have the finest outerwear, and you have the self-assurance to wear it.”